I COOK TO TALK ABOUT THINGS WE DON'T ACKNOWLEDGE (BOSTON GLOBE. MAY 25, 2016)

“This is food for thought — you do the dishes” — hova

 

I am a traveling cook. I began my itinerant cooking career in the fall of 2014, leaving a restaurant I had helped start in the Detroit area in part because I was unimpressed with contemporary food culture. Each week our restaurant hosted a different chef, and they turned out precious (and delicious) tasting menus, the food arranged with surgical precision on trendy plates.

Fed up, in a manner of speaking, I wanted to show Americans what “real food” was and the proper way to enjoy — just eat it!

With little expertise but the experience my mouth holds from eating Nigerian food all my life, I decided to cook. “Nigerian food” is a catch-all phrase for the wild menagerie of dishes flung together, and forced to coexist, sometimes in admiration and other times in jealousy, by the imperialist whims of Great Britain.